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Fashion
Micro shorts. Sequins. DBs. These are the big moves to make in 2024
By Zak Maoui and Adam Cheung
And just like that, Spring/Summer 2024 has officially arrived. This is something that happens every single year, but for some reason, it seems to always take everyone by surprise. If the latest menswear trends are getting you all hot and bothered, we've made everything a little easier.
From wearing really, really tiny shorts à la Paul Mescal, to getting down like Kit Connor and going all future Studio 54 with your fits, these are the big Spring/Summer 2024 trends that we'll be wearing when the warmer weather finally comes back around (praying hard for them already).
Unleash the beast
Saint Laurent Shirt
AllSaints Shirt
Snake, leopard, and zebra prints have long existed in womenswear. But for Spring/Summer 2024, menswear designers went wild for it. At Jil Sander, snakeskin-inspired coats hung on otherwise muted fits, while at Saint Laurent, creative director Anthony Vaccarello amped up the usual sexiness with massive leopard print faux fur coats.
Similarly, Kim Jones sent models down the Dior catwalk in leopard print vest tops, while at Vivienne Westwood, the design team was all about horse hair cow print boots. Because Westerncore, and all that.
Thigh high fits
Burberry Shorts
Oliver Spencer Shorts
Shorts have been steadily getting shorter and shorter. And the shrinking continues. For the Spring/Summer 2024 season, shorts crept further up men's thighs and designers have been proposing another round of the barely there micro-short.
At Hermès, shorts were cut from a silk-wool blend, and came in neutral greys and creams. While Prada got models into high-waisted shorts that were so, well, high-waisted that they left most of the upper thigh bare. Over at Louis Vuitton, Pharrell Williams revealed a selection of collegiate-styled pieces and hoisted them up with big “LV” buckled belts.
The glitterbomb cometh
Dries Van Noten Sequinned Shirt
Asos Design Glitter Vest
Designers in London, Milan, and Paris are re-opening Studio 54 on the runway. Dries Van Noten's shirts were all Dries Van Noten-y and drapey, but they were bedazzled with black sequins. Franco-prep label Ami sent jeans endorsed black, grey and silver sequins paired down by muted long-sleeved tops. Tom Ford, under the leadership of newly-appointed creative director Peter Hawkings, made retro-futuristic sequinned blazers the main attraction in a very disco-coded collection.
It was at Loewe that getting down with Big Night Out fits was also A Thing. The key look in his Spring/Summer 2024 collection was a full glitter frenzy: a sparkly polo shirt, tucked into a pair of sparkly trousers – both of which have already found their way onto Heartstopper actor Kit Connor, who wore the exact outfit to Vogue World, the annual arts celebration from the namesake magazine.
Vest in show
Prada Vest
CDLP Vest
Vests! Everywhere! Not just your standard under layer, either. Vests came in all shapes and sizes, and where before tank tops could simply be worn on their own, vests were introduced in new ways. At Hermès, they peeked from underneath crochet short-sleeved shirts, and at Burberry, chief creative officer Daniel Lee made a case for vests that had minimal side fabric. Dolce & Gabbana had the sexiest take on the traditional vest though, pairing them with barely there shorts (see, they are a thing).
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Valentino went more formal with his vests, cutting them from sage-coloured silk and collaring them with low V necks. Maximilian Davis, the creative director of Ferragamo, placed his vests over long-sleeved tops made from the same ribbed material. So get a vest, basically.
Need for tweed
Bottega Veneta Tweed Blazer
Represent Tweed Coat
Sure, tweed was introduced as a practical fabric for farmers in Scotland and Ireland. But these days, tweed has earned its place on the runway (as well as the wardrobes of really wealthy grandmas).
And it isn't just at Chanel, which for a long time has been the champion of the woven stuff. At Amiri, Dior, and Fendi, tweed was all part of the show with two-piece suits, oversized wraparound overcoats and thick-cut shirting. Posh old lady clothes, but for young cool guys. Sure!
Jumpin' jumpin'
From left to right: Burberry, Loewe, Valentino, Givenchy, Emporio Armani
Prada Overalls
Carhartt WIP Dungarees
The jumpsuit is a bold thing. But it also makes getting dressed really, really easy. Burberry's one-pieces are dark in colour, and belted tightly, Loewe's were cast in full scarlet leather, while Valentino's were more medical in style and worn with chunky sneakers.
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Over at Emporio Armani, the jumpsuits were destined for the Serengeti National Park, while Givenchy's were minimal and hung loosely on the body.
Game of crochet, anyone?
From left to right: Valentino, Dsquared2, Botter, Fendi, Marine Serre
Casablanca Crochet Shirt
Abercrombie Crochet Cardigan
For some time, British designer Simone Rocha has made crochet an integral part of her own brand, but now it's everywhere. At Valentino, coats were delicately crocheted and hole-y, while at Botter, full crocheted tops were prime for beach day and worn over bikini tops for guys.
Fendi jumped on the crochet train and had models wear knitted tops under trench coats, while over at Marine Serre and Dsquared2, crochets tops were cropped. Abs day has never looked more pressing.
Long live the DB
From left to right: Brunello Cucinelli, Giorgio Armani, Brioni, Gucci, Ralph Lauren
Alexander McQueen Double-Breasted Blazer
Percival Double-Breasted Blazer
News just in: that DB in your wardrobe still has some use. Gucci, under the leadership of an interim in-house design team, made the case for oversized double-breasted jackets that are to be worn open and loose.
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Ralph Lauren's DBs, on the other hand, were caramel in colour and buttoned tightly across waists, while Giorgio Armani's were boxier than traditional double-breasted jackets, and worn with cropped trousers.
Endorse Bermuda shorts
Gucci Bermuda Shorts
Sister Jane Bermuda Shorts
Sure, mini shorts are still doing the rounds, but some designers are pushing for longer, baggier iterations of summer cut-offs. At LV, Pharrell paired oversized, floaty blazers with knee-skimming shorts, while at Fendi shorts were Justin Bieber coded: loose, baggy and ideal for the coffee run (just to really hammer home that point, models even carried coffee cups).
Gucci's were cut from plush cotton and fell below the knee, and at Boss, deconstructed suits comprised oversized waistcoats and shorts cut from pinstriped silk that just exposed knee caps.
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